2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine de Montille

Founded in the mid-18th century, this family-owned estate is one of the most historic in the Côte d’Or, with ninth-generation Etienne de Montille now at its helm. Etienne inherited this responsibility from his late father, Hubert, whose tenure lasted a staggering 50 years. While 90% of the region’s production was sold to négociants, Hubert gained fame for his estate-bottled, long-lived and characterful wines. Etienne initially trained as a lawyer but was drawn back to Volnay where he invested in rebuilding the estate. He was a savvy buyer and the domaine now boasts 37 hectares across 35 separate appellations, making it one of the most enviable vineyard holdings in the Côte d’Or. Etienne was an early advocate of organic farming. In 1995 he introduced these principles to the estate’s vineyards. Biodynamic practices followed in 2005, and the domaine received ‘Ecocert Bio’ certification in 2012. Today, Etienne works with American-born chef de cave Brian Sieve, who has been with the domaine for over a decade.