2005 Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga, Marchesi di Grésy

Camp Gros Martinenga is one of those wines that explains why mature Nebbiolo has such a devoted following. The 2005 has moved from youthful grip into a beautifully aromatic phase, with dried rose, red cherry, raspberry, orange peel, tobacco leaf, liquorice, truffle and a cool balsamic thread. It is poised rather than showy, with the quiet confidence of a wine that has no need to raise its voice.

On the palate, it is savoury, silky and finely held, with sweet red fruit now wrapped in tea, spice, leather and a trace of iron. The tannins are still Nebbiolo to the core, but they have softened into a graceful frame, while fresh acidity keeps the finish long, lifted and precise. Drink now with a careful decant for sediment, then let the perfume do the work.

For when
The serious bottle appears just as the conversation gets interesting.

Pairs with
Tajarin with truffle, porcini risotto, veal shin, roast duck, braised beef, grouse, venison or aged Parmesan.

Marchesi di Grésy is a landmark Barbaresco estate, with Martinenga at the heart of its reputation: a south-facing natural amphitheatre owned by the family since 1797 and described by the estate as the only Barbaresco MGA bottled entirely by one producer. Camp Gros is the eastern Martinenga selection, a small south-west-facing parcel of 2.58 hectares at around 280 metres, produced only in the best vintages from the part of the vineyard towards Rabajà. The house style prizes elegance over weight, and this bottle shows exactly why Martinenga has become such a touchstone for refined, ageworthy Barbaresco.