2023 Albarino 'Lagar da Condesa', Lagar da Condesa
Galicia, Spain
Atlantic Gold
Bright, polished and quietly sumptuous, the 2023 Lagar da Condesa shows Albariño in a slightly broader, more textured mood without losing any of its coastal energy. Aromas of apple, pear and lemon rise first, followed by white peach, a flicker of tropical fruit and that lovely saline, mineral note that seems to carry the Atlantic straight into the glass. There is a touch of honeyed richness here too, but it feels beautifully focused rather than opulent, with the wine balancing ripe fruit and freshness in a way that feels both generous and precise. The palate is rich and fleshy, packed with citrus concentration and orchard fruit, yet lifted by crisp acidity and a long, mouthwatering finish.
For when: seafood is ordered, the sun is still out, and lunch looks set to drift into the evening.
Pairs with: grilled prawns, white fish, shellfish rice, or simply a plate of good olives and salty air.
If this wine were a place: a stone terrace above the Galician coast, where the breeze smells of lemon peel and the sea.
Lagar da Condesa was founded by the Gil family in 2013 in Arcos da Condesa, in the Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas, with the winery surrounded by its own estate Albariño vineyards. The vines are trained on traditional pergolas to help with airflow in the region’s damp Atlantic climate, and the southwest exposure helps the fruit ripen while preserving freshness. The wine also spends around six months on its fine lees, which helps explain its extra texture and layered feel.
Whats in the bottle
100% Albariño
Notable Awards
91 points – Vinous