2017 Syrah ' Deconstructed Lake District Cartref SH22', Kershaw

This outstanding Syrah, one of South Africa’s best, is part of a range of wines called Deconstructed, which winemaker Richard Kershaw created to show the world-class vineyards of Elgin and the differences between vineyards and clones in the region.   Only 552 bottles were produced.

Intensely savoury yet beautifully poised, this tiny-production Elgin Syrah combines dark fruit depth with the fragrance and freshness of a cooler climate. Blackberry and black cherry mingle with brighter red berry notes, lifted by violet and freshly cracked black pepper. A meaty, almost gamey character brings intrigue beneath the fruit, while liquorice, subtle oak spice and a stony mineral edge add definition. It is an expressive, layered wine whose concentration never overwhelms its finer details.

The palate is medium-bodied but deeply flavoured, with succulent fruit held by fine, firm tannins and refreshing acidity. A lightly saline thread runs through the middle, drawing the berry flavours towards a long, savoury finish. Bottle age makes this an especially interesting opportunity to explore the complexity of meticulously made South African Syrah, with structure still supporting further development. For those drawn to the peppery perfume and savoury depth of the Northern Rhône, there is much to discover here.

For when: Dinner is unhurried, the glasses are generous, and something quietly extraordinary is called for.

Pairs with: Venison loin with juniper jus, rosemary-crusted lamb rack, roast duck with lentils, peppered beef fillet, wild mushroom and chestnut pie, or aged sheep’s cheese.

The Deconstructed range explores how a single vineyard, soil type and vine clone shape a wine’s personality. Here, SH22 identifies Syrah clone 22, while Cartref describes the quartz-bearing soils of the selected parcel. Richard Kershaw calls this western corner of Elgin the Lake District, referring to the large bodies of water formed by the dammed Palmiet River. Production in 2017 amounted to just 552 standard bottles, alongside a small number of larger formats.

The 2017 season combined low rainfall with conditions that encouraged concentrated fruit and retained freshness. Wind during flowering contributed to uneven berry set and smaller berries, while an unusually cool December slowed ripening. January rain brought relief, and cool nights approaching harvest helped preserve acidity and support steady flavour development. The result is a vintage distinguished by clear fruit expression and finely textured tannins.