2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr “Im Laychen” Grosses Gewächs Réserve Alte Reben Riesling, Dr Loosen
Mosel, Germany
Slate & Time
Graceful, layered and extraordinarily refined, this is dry Mosel Riesling taken to another level through ancient vines and extended maturation. White peach, lemon peel and ripe stone fruit sit alongside chamomile, dried meadow flowers and delicate herbs, while a deep seam of flint and crushed blue slate runs beneath everything. There is impressive concentration, but the wine never loses the ethereal elegance that makes Wehlener Sonnenuhr so distinctive.
The palate is silky and expansive, combining ripe citrus and stone fruit with fine acidity, saline minerality and an almost weightless sense of precision. Twenty-four months on the full lees in traditional oak fuder gives remarkable texture and depth, while prolonged bottle ageing has allowed the elements to knit together beautifully. The finish is extraordinarily persistent, herbal, stony and laser-focused. This is a profound, mature dry Riesling that still has years of development ahead of it.
For when: Only something genuinely exceptional will do, but you still want elegance rather than excess.
Pairs with: Roast turbot, lobster, scallops, grilled langoustines, roast chicken, pork tenderloin, veal, mushroom dishes, lightly spiced Asian food, mature Comté or simply a large glass and plenty of time.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr, the Sundial of Wehlen, is one of the Middle Mosel’s great historic vineyards, but Im Laychen makes this bottling even more specific. The name can be translated as the “little slate vineyard”, a particular parcel where the blue-slate bedrock lies exceptionally close to the surface. There is almost no conventional topsoil, so the roots penetrate deep through fractures in the rock. Dr Loosen’s vines here are at least 130 years old, ungrafted and among the oldest vines the estate possesses in Wehlen.
The famous sundial overlooking Wehlen was erected in 1842 by Jodocus Prüm, an ancestor of the Loosen family. The vineyard’s steep exposure, extraordinary drainage and heat-retaining blue slate help Riesling achieve ripeness while retaining the bright acidity and mineral character for which the site is celebrated.
Whats in the bottle
Riesling 100%
Notable Awards
99 Points, James Suckling