2023 Dolcetto d'Alba, Giacomo Fenocchio

Since 1864, five generations of the Fenocchio family have been producing wine in the heart of Barolo – most of them born in the same yellow house in Monforte d’Alba, at the top of a hillside covered in Nebbiolo grapes. In 1947, the young Giacomo took control of the estate and built up the winemaking significantly. In the 1960s, he acquired parcels of land on different hillsides around Alba and the Giacomo Fenocchio label began gaining international recognition.

Giacomo passed away in 1989 and, like his father, Claudio Fenocchio had a steep learning curve (albeit supported by his brothers Albino and Alberto). This coincided with the ‘Barolo Wars’….. modernisers shortened maceration periods, encouraged malolactic fermentation and aged the wine in small barriques – all with the aim of softening the traditionally robust tannins of Barolo and making it a wine for drinking young rather than ageing. Faced with the choice between a commercial approach and maintaining the philosophy of his father, Claudio opted for something else: ‘radical traditionalism’.

Claudio says, “Perhaps somebody up there advised me to be true to the tradition of our terroir.” But, while he planted foundations in the ‘traditional’ camp, he did not set out to simply preserve his father’s legacy, but to build on it. The 1989 estate’s 7 hectares have grown to 14 now, all in grand cru locations. While the majority are still in Bussia Sottana, close by the winery, Fenocchio also owns vineyards in Cannubi, Castellero and Villero in Castiglione Falletto.

Technically, Claudio has found a way of producing wines which have approachable fruit when young, yet built around a strong tannic structure which does not overwhelm early on, but encourages the development of the wine over years. It is partly due to some green harvesting and careful selection, partly due to enzymatic reaction (ironically) during the long fermentation, which melds the fruit and tannin seamlessly. Barolos are aged for five months in stainless steel, two years in Slovenian oak and a further year in the bottle before release

In addition to Nebbiolo, the Fenocchio team also works with other traditional Piedmont grape varieties – notably Dolcetto (fresh and fruity, with balancing dryness and bitter notes) and Barbera (full-bodied, with an intense bouquet and distinct acidity).